Foundation, a concentrate of innovations

With USD 20 billion of worldwide sales in 2011 and a growth rate of 5.4%, foundation appears to be a strategic product for brands. Industry experts shared their views during the 2013 edition of MakeUp in Paris.“Foundation is a true combination of expertises” said as an introduction, Dany Sanz, Artistic Director of Make Up For Ever. It is an essential product but not to visible, “once applied, its role is to remain unnoticed, when actually it is the fundamental basis to a perfect make-up,” complements Mario De Luigi, CEO of B.KOLOR makeup & skincare. The choice of a foundation is not to be neglected. “Women take their time to test several of them and decide which one will suit their skin type, their complexion. Then they remain very loyal to their selection,” notes De Luigi. The colour ranges available are consistent. On average, twenty different shades are created by brands. The textures offered need to be fine, invisible so that, as specified Sanz, “the skin texture can be recovered, while wrinkles are smoothed out, the homogeneity of the complexion is ensured and imperfections are corrected” For certain categories of customers like the younger ones or seniors, “who are heavy foundation consumers,” according to De Luigi, their skin type requires greater attention.

A suitable packaging

“Even if the packaging will not act as a selling factor” as specified Laurent Frydlender, Director of Quadpack France – Yonwoo Europe, “it can be the reason for a lack of sales” The choice of the material is done in parallel with the development of formulas. The regulatory constraints in relation with the container/content interactions are taken into account as early as the project’s inception. Requirements in connection with absorption, adsorption, permeability, delivery and neutrality of the material relative to the formula ingredients are needed with the new European regulations introduced this summer 2013. “Glass is seldom used in make-up, but on the other hand, because of its neutrality it is widely used for foundation products. 70% of liquid products use a container. We offer in addition anti-UV, hydrophobic treatments to the glass to ensure a perfect protection of the bulk,” underlined Valérie Jacob international marketing Director of the perfume & cosmetics division of the SGD Group. For his part, Frydlender highlighted the important research work conducted by Yonwoo on the compatibility between plastic materials and foundation formulas. “We can offer airless packs with a high sealing efficiency for an optimal product protection.” Advising clients on which type of container the product can be packaged is a need required by manufacturers. “We must be able to propose our clients some packs, that are adapted to the formulas developed by our laboratories,” explained De Luigi. “Packaging can also play a part in brands’ image and innovation strategies, with solutions in line with their corporate codes,” complements Jacob.

Application systems need to be further improved

The applicator is also important to achieve good make up results, while, according to our experts, they are disappointing. “The result is very different from one applicator to the other,” confirmed De Luigi who considers that the finger is the ideal tool. A key to success according to Frydlender is “to adapt the applicator to the formula and the desired effect.”
We must keep in mind however, as Sanz pointed out, that “the first impulse purchase for a foundation is driven by advertising,” but the quality of products and their adequacy with the client’s need enable to ensure re-purchase. Is it not just as important?