Make-up brushes have become more specialized and diversify the usages

With the democratization of make-up techniques through a constant access to new gestures and tutorials delivered by specialists, including smartphone applications and tablets, brushes are enjoying a real boom in the beauty industry. Women want to have a flawless and professional make-up application. The brush becomes the indispensable make-up tool. “According to experts in the field, 50% of a good make-up comes from the products used, and 50% from the applicator,” underlined Mariangela Porpora from Pennellifaro ().

With the growing complexity and diversity of formulas, brushes had to adapt. Some formulas are creamy, others are drier and more volatile, and others for example come in the form of a gel, like the new trend on eyeliners. “Innovation is the spearhead of the market,” explained to us Fred Ghenassia from the Pinceaux Léonard Bullier (). “We created for example a special brush for the neckline. In three years we filed 5 patents in total (not just for make-up), when ten years ago, nobody filed a patent for brushes in the world”.

As regards with Cosmogen, they have been investing for more than 30 years in innovation for the brushes and applicators segment of their business. Nowadays, they are mainly focusing on new forms, new gestures, innovations in fibers and mixed-fibers – and seasonal collections. Today the trend goes for synthetic fibers, with Brands wishing to stop using natural fibers for traceability reasons. Cosmogen recently launched several innovative ranges: Blur – patented and expert range for loose powders, Silkness – revolutionary fiber combining sensory and ultra natural makeup result, and most recently Perfect complexion – shapes and densities tufts adapted to compact formulas.

In another segment of colour cosmetics, that of nails, innovations reflect the interest in this market, with the resurgence of nail art in particular, as demonstrated with the Cosmogen collection, with fan-shaped, square, oval, liner brushes, etc.

Women are looking for the practical and multi-purpose aspect of the brush. A brush must be easy to use and adapt to the different cares, keep its basic shape and have an as long as possible lifespan.

Today’s consumer seeks “ease of application: hence the creation of the concept Blush & Sculptor in a gesture through the Double sculpt brush – a brush with innovative tuft, to easily brush and draw eyebrows , etc., “says Mylène Meunier, from Cosmogen. On the practical aspect, the manufacturer has also launched concepts such as “On the Go: 4 brushes 1, – interchangeable concept combining several high quality applicators on one handle for the demanding traveller. ” Cosmogen draws on its expertise to recommend brush based on a targeted formula, when working with beauty Brands.

The global market is ever increasing. And Pennellifaro confirms “the interest for multi-fibre brushes that adapt to new make-up textures.” Today brands have added to their lines new references that normally require the knowledge of a specialist. “Every woman wants to have access to techniques and be her own professional make-up artist,” said Mariangela.

Present on the market for more than 40 years, Pennellifaro relies on the quality of its products and in its “made in Italy” and “handmade” products to appeal to brand owners. To that end, the company has strengthened its teams, moved-in new headquarters that stayed close to the production site and develops full-service capabilities, to address the needs of make-up brands, its clients.

On the side of brands, Pinceaux Léonard Bullier note a more in-depth market analysis, and see brands marketing services call on the brush manufacturer with a request on fibres and shapes in connection with the make-up texture. “Products are no longer developed independently from each other, but complement one another. Indeed, since make-up textures are developing, why not develop in parallel new brush habits too,” emphasised Ghenassia.

The market is therefore drawn upwards thanks to professional techniques that are democratizing and offer more creativity and technicality in the use of a make-up brush.

The brand Pinceaux Raphaël (), specializing in fine brushes, is riding on the wave of high end professional brushes, by adapting its fibres and hairs to the demanding requirements of its customers. Raphael is essentially involved in customized manufacturing for global make-up brands. “Its Development Office and its factory (the largest in Europe) in St Brieuc, Brittany, and a factory with 450 employees in Mauritius, enable the company to cope with the current growing demand in the segment of brushes/quality make-up tools,” highlighted Pascal Goussens.

On another continent, and ridding on a booming market, the U.S. manufacturer, Anisa International, recently celebrated the tenth anniversary of its factory in China, “celebrating ten years of innovation and quality production,” underlined Anisa Telwar. ()

Anisa Intl relies on “a highly qualified personnel for the manufacture of increasingly “sharper” brushes, which helped ensure the growth and success of the company,” added Anisa. Again, innovation is a key success factor for the manufacturer. “We always use the best fibres – more stable, but also more flexible for the use of different products –, using more innovative mechanisms. Creativity and collaboration are the drivers of our ideas and product designs,” added Anisa.

Again innovations on fibres, the use of multi-fibres and innovative designs make the difference on the market, according to Anisa Intl. Another growing segment for the US Company, are accessories that accompany the expansion of the nail care market.
This evolving market, is far from having used all of its resources. It remains to be seen what tomorrow’s make-up is holding for us in terms of usage and applications.