A deep – rooted trend ! To make-up, to heal

To make-up, to heal, the 1st round table at the 2013 edition of MakeUp in Paris explored the existing links between skincare and make-up.

Historically, make-up is not intended to be a skincare

Although the use of make-up among Egyptians and particularly the Pharaohs is a well known fact, the use of make-up in our societies only dates back to the 19th century. “Theatre actresses were the first to make themselves up in a desire to be seen from afar, to disguise themselves,” says in her introduction, Dominique Bouvier President of Strand Cosmetic Europe. The products used at the time were made of opacifiers with heavy renderings, the benefit to the skin was not the primary objective. Then, from the 60s, women, along with the discovery of their new found freedom, made theirs these cosmetic products, which had become lighter, more subtle. “I even think that in the future make-up products will be made of textures completely invisible to the skin,” hopes Max Herlant make-up Advisor for Yves Rocher, who offers make-up courses for consumers and is working on a new television show focusing on beauty.

Care make-up under the leadership of Japan

In Japan, the purpose of make-up has always been to help Japanese women achieve a flawless skin, reaching its climax with the tradition of Geishas. The make-up concept overlaps that of skin care. “In each skincare range, there is a foundation, which is the border product between skincare and make-up. For example, the actives of our skincare range Sensia are also included our make-up range,” emphasises Ghislaine Suquet at Kanebo Cosmetics. Japan was also a pioneer in the use of pigments, of powders better suited to the skin. Treatments applied to the particles are designed to provide smoothness, transparency, glide and full compatibility with the skin surface. Ensuring that this support was properly treated has long been present in the Japanese peninsula. In Europe, adds Pierre Miasnik CEO of Fiabila “As of 1975 with the introduction of the European cosmetic Regulation, raw materials that could be harmful were substituted in formulas. I am thinking in particular of toluene, phthalates, formaldehyde resins for nail polishes. I take this opportunity to underline that we have recently developed a cream remover.” Making up is becoming increasingly healthier and although some women still think otherwise, “I still hear comments from people who think that a foundation will keep the skin from breathing” comments Herlant, the ingredients used are designed in accordance with skin biology requirements. Even nail polishes today support hydration claims. “We offer solvent based varnishes with a 5% D-panthenol content and in aqueous bases we go up to a 3% urea content. The nail then recovers its full flexibility” details Miasnik. “Make-up like our smartphones which are multifunctional, must be able to take care of everything” advises Suquet and “even if the border between skincare and make-up becomes then very tenuous, it is not a problem,” she complements. A foundation with a sunscreen, a mascara with a prolonging active, moisturising and plumping lipsticks, claims originating from the world of skincare can also be found in make-up.

A cleansing process that needs to improved

And consumers want more. “Make-up with therapeutic properties is not authorized, but a number of studies show its influence on the mental health of clients and self-confidence. Nevertheless, make-up cannot be compared with a skincare product because, in my opinion, health care is the first skin treatment,” emphasises Bouvier. And it is true, adds Bouvier “that some teenagers with skin affected by localized infections widely use make-up to hide their skin blemishes without paying a proper attention to cleansing. Sometimes there is too much hygiene which causes a seborrheic reaction preparing the grounds for infections and chronic inflammation, sometimes this step is omitted but rarely do we have the right balance.” In the field of cleansing, progress still needs to be made according to our experts. “Cleansing itself can be aggressive to the skin, it is important to teach the right gestures to women and innovations have yet to be found in this area for increased softness and performance,” concludes Suquet.

The question that we then need to consider is whether the future of skincare in make-up could not involve cleansing?