Fashion and makeup: a marriage of convenience

MakeUp in NewYork was an opportunity to take stock during a conference that brought together more than 150 people, of the interaction between Fashion and Make-up. One of the speakers, Philippe Jourdan, founding partner of Promise Consulting looked back on this interaction, particularly concerning the U.S. market.

MakeUp in…™: At the Makeup in NewYork trade show, you presented an aggregation of several studies on the make-up market in the United States. What were your findings?

Philippe Jourdan: Promise Consulting analysed through 10 studies over a period of four years the selective market of make-up in the United States. It appears that three types of make-up brands coexist with images and on different territories. There are the ones coming from fashion like Dior, Chanel, Saint Laurent. They convey elegance, prestige, refinement, and an image of high luxury. Alongside them we find “pure player” make-up brands used in part by professionals who back them up with to their reputation. Creativity, ease of application, a multitude of available shades are their attributes. Bobbi Brown, Mac, Benefit, Bare Escentuals are some examples. Finally, the 3rd family comes from the world of skincare with Lancôme, Estée Lauder, Clinique with a very recognizable style, a very strong product expertise, and with a good price/quality ratio.
Each woman buys on average and over a year, 11 make-up products in selective circuits, 26% of which concern lips, 30% the eyes, 30% the complexion and 14% the nails. Sales of beauty products in selective distribution totalled at the end of the 1st half of 2013, USD 8 million, i.e., a growth of 8%.

MakeUp in…™: Did you noticed for the U.S. market some synergies between the awareness of a make-up brand and its presence in the world of fashion and perfume?

Philippe Jourdan: For this, we could compare Chanel, Clinique and Mac. Clinic, which operates exclusively in the beauty sector is the leader in terms of sales of make-up products and has a good growth potential. Chanel, for its part, conveys a strong image in connection with the fashion world and is therefore not as much associated with make-up. However, compared with Clinique, Chanel’s capacity to appeal to consumers is greater. As for Mac, compared to Chanel and Clinique but also to all the other make-up brands, it is a formidable challenger. Mac has a very high profile, it is attractive, it has a high growth potential and a strong loyal customer base. Though not originating from fashion and perfumes, Mac is present in make-up and I can assure you it is observed by everyone.

MakeUp in…™: Aside from the price and the scope of the product offering, what are the assets of selective make-up brands in terms of sales and service?

Philippe Jourdan: They differ depending of the brand’s territory. For those coming from fashion like Chanel, giving an opportunity to customers to enter the world of luxury is an undeniable plus especially since it will be associated with a strong store experience. The consumer loves being pampered and her satisfaction with the use of the product will come in addition to the delightful experience she had at the point of sale. For categories originating from the beauty world like Estée Lauder, what will be put forward is availability, advice and the expertise offered by beauty consultants. The wide selection of products will complement these evaluations. Finally for brands like Calvin Klein, coming from the perfume sector, the discovery of the world of make-up will often occur through the purchase of a perfumery product. The welcoming on the point of sale, its organization, the possibility for an express make-up are important assets for all brands operating in the selective distribution. Women in these territories are also sensitive to the brand’s social responsibility.

MakeUp in…™: Your study was centred on the U.S. market. What is happening elsewhere?

Philippe Jourdan: The marriage between fashion and make-up is, I believe, a marriage of convenience. They serve the same function, that of appearances; therefore it makes sense to associate them. In fashion parade, make-up artists are involved in the staging.
Differences exist depending of cultures, however. In Japan, the relationship with make-up is more intimate and is integrated in the daily beauty routine. In France, like in the U.S., make-up is the finish touch to an evening dress. In Asia it is more and more part of everyday life. The deployment in European markets of Kiko might change habits among the younger generation by shifting make-up from fashion to trends, with an increase in the renewal of products and offers. Prices offered here are also down compared to those of traditional luxury brands.