In and Out : The First Ingredients Intake

From Chinese tradition to high tech beauty, MakeUp in Shanghai, 7 & 8 July, the taylor made BtoB event pairs global offer with local demand.

MakeUp in™ is a world of its own within the skincare and makeup industries. Suppliers, brands and trend setters come together to give life to new lines and products. When we talk about ingredients for beautiful skin in Asia, we need to take a look at in and out beauty, aka beauty supplement, a staple in Asian routine.

TCM inspired : Many Traditional Chinese Medecine ingredients are famous for their skin & hair beauty benefits such as Bird’s Nest for whitening & moisturizing or Ginseng for anti-aging and can be found in star products such as BEIJING TONG REN TANG  EDIBLE BIRD’S NEST NICOTINAMIDE COLLAGEN PEPTIDE FLAVOR SOLID DRINK.  Nicknamed “small golden bar”, this drinkable collagen powder offers holistic anti-aging care that moisturizes, brightens, nourishes skin, fight against glycation, protect eyes and intimate area.

Popular beauty supplements ingredients : According to 2019 CBNData survey, popular skincare ingredients in beauty supplements in China are HA and Peptide for moisturizing, Niacinamide, VC and Glutathione for whitening and Collagen, Anthocyanidin, Blood Orange and Caviar for anti-aging. For instance, SEPHORA COLLAGEN DRINK COLLECTION launched in 2019 is a best seller in China, by offering a mix of high-quality Japanese Nippi collagen and popular local ingredients such as Black Sesame or Blood Orange.

Vitamins !

Key skincare ingredients in Asia vary depending on the benefits sought after – from soothing Cica, Azulene or Allantoin, to moisturizing Ceramide and HA, anti-aging Fullerene and acne care AHA, BHA and Sulphur.

Vitamins are also on the top list of sought-after ingredients, especially for brightening, aging and hydrating benefits as illustrated by the latest hot daily skincare routine in China : VC for whitening & anti-oxidation during the day and VA for skin repair & anti-aging during the night. This routine has reached more than 480K posts on Chinese social media RED (March 2021).


Covid-related : Boom of medical/ointments inspired ingredients for fragilized skin

As more and more consumers are suffering from face mask-induced skin troubles and dryness, cosmetics companies are looking for better ingredients to meet this need. Some of them are looking at Fusidium Coccineum, the main ingredient in Korea’s beloved ointment, FUCIDIN; for heightened medical-level skin treatment. It is the case for new FUSIDIUM TROUBLE CALMING LINE BY APIEU, a skincare line containing Fusidium™ Complex comprised of fermented Fusidium Coccineum Filtrate to protect sensitive skin and cares for troubled skin and Dex Panthenol that prevents hydration loss and soothes skin.

FUCIDIN (후시딘 연고)
Ointment with Fusidium Coccineum Extract manufactured and sold by Donghwa Pharmaceutical.
Good for skin restoration.
Must-have ointment in every Korean home.

What about make-up ?

In our recent Green make report, we have seen many brands infusing skincare ingredients in make-up to offer soothing and moisturizing benefits (especially since Covid), and many consumers wish for their make-up to act as the last step of their skincare routine. So, let’s take a look at the next skincare ingredients in makeup !

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) is highly popular in anti-aging and anti-wrinkle care for most Asian brands, Niacinamide. Japanese brand Crystal Jemmy launched the first quasi-drug medicated foundation JEMMY NEFERTARI WRINKLE SERUM FOUNDATION (QD) SPF50+/PA+++ focusing on wrinkle improvement, whitening, and prevention of skin irritation. It is formulated with the active ingredient Niacinamide, as well as moisturizing ingredients including 3 types of vitamin C derivatives, Retinol, and 3 types of Ceramide.

Microbiome has become an extremely hot topic in the cosmetic industry for all categories from skincare to haircare, and now becoming instrumental in providing long lasting moisture while wearing makeup. Japanese green brand AY-NATURAL launched MINERAL ROLL-ON BB SPF32/PA+++ that contains “Skin Pro-Biotics” : “Enterococcus Faecalis” and “Raffinose” help create a healthy balance of normal bacterial flora.

Crystal Jemmy


Asia Cosme Lab alias Information et Inspiration, is beauty experts agency founded in 2003 by Florence BERNARDIN. Its Franco-Asian team of experts is entirely dedicated to monitor and follow Asian cosmetics markets from North Asia to South East ones including India & Thailand.