MakeUp in Shanghai…, at the crossroads of trends!
In just over a month, on April 11th and 12th, MakeUp in Shanghai will be run concurrently with Luxe Pack Shanghai. In the wake of the success of MakeUp in LosAngeles, the launch of this first edition in Shanghai is indeed the proof of the fantastic development of the Chinese makeup industry. An ever increasing growth, driven by the different trends from the U.S. West Coast, of course, but also Japan and South Korea. Two conferences will certainly gather a large audience. The first one, on April 11th from 2:00 pm to 2:45 pm, animated by Florence Bernardin from Information & Inspiration, on the theme: “J Beauty, how is Japan re-defining the cosmetics market?”; and the second one, on April 12th from 1:00 pm to 1:30 pm organized by Leila Rochet-Podvin from Cosmetic Inspiration & Creation, on the theme: “Makeup Trends in the US: What are the trends to follow and what is the next Big Thing”. Not to be missed! Florence Bernardin and Leila Rochet-Podvin tell us more bellow…
Florence Bernardin, general Manager of Information & Inspiration, an Asian cosmetics markets specialist will highlight through trends and products how J-Beauty & K-Beauty are different but complementary. She will show how one exists thanks to the other one, how the two match with consumer’s needs and expectations from all over the world.
Leïla Rochet-Podvin is a “beauty trotter” with a passion for world cultural influences, changes in consumers’ lifestyle, innovations and their influence on beauty. Leila frequently speaks at beauty industry events and has held various conferences all around the world. Leïla will come back to the roots of the American Beauty market and the major shifts of the society that led to this disruption. Based in Paris with a network of international partners, her firm works with the top international beauty companies. She earned her MBA from Cornell University (USA) before heading various international positions in International Marketing and Development at Procter & Gamble and LVMH.
Japan/Korea: “The winner is…”
MakeUp in…™: According to the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association J-Beauty exports grew 28.8 percent year-on-year to 267.6 billion yen (about $2.4 billion) in 2016, exceeding beauty imports for the first time, and are expected to surpass Korean beauty exports at 300 billion yen ($2.75 billion) in 2017. Dozens of press articles are now focusing on J-Beauty as a kind of successful winner after the huge expansion of K-beauty… but is it only a matter of fashion, is it just a beauty battle?
Florence Bernardin: Japan is a mature market, quality and consumer oriented. Here are some key facts that highlight how J-Beauty can be seen….
Consumers are aging and feel much more concerned nowadays about their inner beauty rather than showing off. They look for natural skin tone with flawless radiance as a symbol of ideal skin. Expressions of femininity remain without any excess, perfectly balanced and mastered.
The country has been facing years of economic, political and sadly, of environment crisis leading to a big move towards simplicity, minimalism, natural & organic trends but without any compromise on quality. Package, formula, applicators services, sampling… every step of the beauty approach remain perfect.
“Made in Japan” has never been as strong, from ingredients to formula… as a guarantee of safe & clean quality. Many new brands have been showing up thanks to new distribution channels such as Cosme Kitchen. Brands are claiming the local, crafted origins of their materials, ingredients based on traditional know – how.
“Petit price” products are now available in any variety & drugstores, providing possibility as for fashion to do mix & match beauty approaches. Cosmetics from Japan are now affordable and easy to access.
Layering that has originated from Japan with double steps of cleansers, moisturizing and foundation is now being substituted during week days by “all-in-one” products that can replace up to 7 steps of beauty routine or 7 products. This means than no unnecessary new steps or new products were created but instead, short cut items adapted to women’s lifestyle.
For all these reasons, the Japanese beauty cliché of complicated, expensive, pale and powdery makeup has gone for a much easier, simple and natural beauty.
MakeUp in…™: Korea is a young market, fashionable and trendy consumer oriented, is that right?
Florence Bernardin: Thanks to K-beauty, the cosmetic world has moved to new textures, new beauty steps, new excitement for new product concepts such as BB, CC, Cushion, Tone up, Sleeping masks…
Main consumers are young and want the maximum potential of beauty products to express ideal beauty as a key to their successful social life. It’s all about glowing, dewy skin, tinted lips, boyish brows…
Products are designed for layering, with a huge number of steps for consumers to obtain ideal, perfect and satisfying skin result. New steps are always under consideration from suppliers to consumers.
Formula based on natural ingredients have twisted the traditional beauty approach but also derma-care/dr’s brands into a new exciting beauty world.
Limited editions and collaborations always create new desires for new products.
Shopping remain an adventure : retailing experiences from VR to color factory lab or minimalistic art gallery approaches show up every day in Seoul.
For all these reasons, K-beauty has transformed cosmetics into fun, pleasure with new beauty desires on results. K-beauty will remain a booster for the cosmetics world.
The United States: A $ 90 Billion Market!
MakeUp in…™: What are the US emerging trends and innovations?
Leïla Rochet-Podvin: The United States has the largest beauty market in the world, propelled by makeup and premium, and its revenue is estimated to $80 billion today and to $90 billion by 2020 according to Euromonitor.
It is also a country that has experienced major shifts with the rising importance of e-commerce and the upsurge of “Indie Brands” that have disrupted the market and become the new creative class of Beauty.
MakeUp in…™: Analysts are talking of a real “break” between yesterday’s world and today’s in terms of make-up products consumption.
Leïla Rochet-Podvin: Beauty activity has never been so intense and new pioneers have been entering the market by disrupting the paths used by traditional brands. The rules are being reinvented while consumers are increasingly looking for brands that are exciting, fun and close to their values.
During my presentation, I will come back to the roots of the American Beauty market and the major shifts of the society that led to this disruption. I will also share four major trends to follow, from the more inclusive representation of beauty to the new quest for holistic wellness.