MakeUp in Shanghai serie about asian trends is back!
Are these words ringing your bell ?
Thanks to the cutting-edge analysis of Asia Cosme Lab (www.asiacosmelab.com) discover what’s hot in Asia this month and get used to challenge your beauty habits.
March was all about new colors and shade inspirations for Spring, April is a focus on complexion. Perfect look starts with a bright flawless skin and an excellent base make-up, from primer to finish.
Let’s take a look at the latest skin ideals in Asia, with new wordings, innovative formulas and sophisticated finishes – from skincare, including brightening – to hybrids – to the most inspiring foundations trends this season.
New Covid vocabulary
With Covid outbreak in February 2020, base make-up has evolved drastically, from a wave of “no-fade” (no foundation) since staying at home became the norm, to Zoom-ready looks, to new performances to adapt to everyday mask wearing. In Korea, special vocabulary such as #Chakboot! #착붙 (super close adherence) or Un-tact (contactless) has emerged to express the new concerns of consumers when applying their base make-up. In Japan, a new form of bare-skin light make-up has appeared with One-Mile make-up (quick and natural makeup for when you’re going out for a “little bit of a walk” = one mile range) that has prompted the emergence of hybrid solutions such as tone-up base and tinted moisturizers.
Brands were quickly to respond with technologies that allow non-transfer to the mask and extra long-lasting performances under drastic conditions. Since last year many companies have had a dynamic strategy offering products with new technologies, resistant to friction, mask humidity … creating coating protective barrier cf Missha launched THE CUSHION SKIN MATTE SPF50+/PA++++ launched in sept 2020, or ESPOIR PRO TAILER BE POWDER CUSHION SPF 42 PA++ launched this spring, a mask-proof cushion with a Slurry Cushion™ Technology that stabilizes high amount of powder base. The powder covers pores and blemishes while oil prevents dryness.
In 2020, Creamy Skin (奶油肌) was one of the most desired finishes, especially for Chinese consumers, as it is the “happy medium finish between water glowy skin and velvet matte skin”.
For Spring 2021, Micro-light is the complexion obsession in China : a bare-skin like, super natural, traceless base makeup, where skin reveals a healthy good-looking born-with micro-glow from inside out. It requests the base product to provide a refreshing, breathable and buildable texture to naturally cover skin blemishes without hiding skin natural complexion and radiance.
Locking the make-up
To avoid make-up transfer on the mask and to generally get a good fixing against any smudging, caking or drying, locking the make-up is a key gesture, with brands going even further by bringing benefits such as cooling, pore-tightening, hydrating and bringing glow.
Cooling appears as a major benefit with primers (MAJOLICA MAJORCA PORELESS FREEZER), fixing mists (SHUSHUPA! MAKE KEEP SPRAY COOL PLUS) and even setting powders (FLORASIS ICY PEACH POWDER) that keep the skin fresh and soothed, while insuring a perfect finish and long-lasting performance.
Hydrated and glowy skin under the mask is also a requirement. Tony Moly launched MY LUMINOUS FIXING GLOW MIST in March 2021, a glow lasting makeup fixing mist. It fills the skin with moisture while fixing the long-lasting glow that does not dry out and increases adherence of glow makeup, as well as minimizing mask stains. A bi-layered formula with water:oil=8:2 ratio, contains 68% Lotus Flower Water for hydration and skin protection care, Lotus Complex for hydration, whitening, and soothing and Jewelry Complex for glowy skin.
Hybridization of skincare and make-up has evolved to meet new concerns generated by Covid-19 : beautiful skin finish without heavy make-up, new skin sensitivity/problems due to mask wearing, as well as a renewed fear of external aggressions like UV, pollen or pollution.
Espoir has launched SKIN LIKE TINTED MOISTURIZER SPF50+ PA+++, an all-in-one base working as a second skin that enlivens skin tone and instantly delivers much-needed moisture and comfortable coverage with a smooth finish for a perfect bare-skin look. A wide variety of UV base with a color-correcting effect has been released this year. A combination of UV base and face power provide minimum coverage and maximum protection during the day. ALLIE COLOR TUNING UV SPF50+/PA++++ is a “No Foundation UV” that makes the skin look more beautiful with its color-correcting effect even when you don’t wear a foundation.
C-derma brand Winona has extended its skincare range to offer a serum foundation dedicated to sensitive skin : SAFE SOOTHING & MOISTURIZING SERUM FOUNDATION, developed especially for dehydrated sensitive skin to help create ideal « watery creamy skin ».
Let us focus on 3 products that show foundation is not anymore only about perfect coverage and finish but offers new experience in terms of textures, colors and formats.
A case in point that illustrate this new approach is RMK COLOR FOUNDATION launched in March 2021, inspired by watercolor paintings. It breaks the concept that foundation has to be “skin tone-like color” and brings out a clear brightness of the skin by only adding the “missing color”. By using less pigment than regular beige foundations, it avoids creasing or caking or look cakey even after a long time wearing.
Another original take on foundation is the new SPACER ROLLING BB CUSHION FOUNDATION by Chinese brand Rec, a super adhesive, lasting and breathable rolling cushion with X-fine powder technology to hide skin blemishes that allows a skin-lifting “happy face” application method !
Last but not least, a new texture offered by Elegance’s (Albion) latest launch : FITTING GELÉE FOUNDATION, a jelly-type cushion foundation that creates a translucent, plump and bouncy skin and maintains a freshly-applied beautiful finish.