Solar products have long been confined to seasonal products, associated with vacations and beaches. However, their place in consumers’ skincare routines is gradually evolving. Sunscreen products are thus at a crossroads: they play a public health role in the prevention of skin cancers (even if the regulations do not allow this claim, studies prove it), and their interest in the prevention of photoaging is increasingly known. Thus, anti-aging prevention is cited by more than 50% of consumers as reasons to protect themselves from the sun*. This shift from protecting against sunburn to combating premature skin aging is driving industry innovation at all stages of the value chain.
Innovating on the Formula: Not So Simple
Sunscreen products are not cosmetic products like any other. They can have a special status, intermediate between cosmetics and medicine, as in the United States or South Korea. Their regulatory framework imposes constraints and restrictions on the ingredients that can be used in formulas, in particular sunscreens, and makes innovation on sunscreens more complex. In Europe, the process is often very long between the start of development and marketing (up to 10 years) since any new filter must be authorized by the European Commission. The necessary investment sometimes leads to a relative availability of these new filters, which may be patented and exclusive to certain groups.
However, improving the protective performance of sunscreen formulas does not only occur at the level of UV filters. SPF boosters are constantly growing in the offerings of cosmetic ingredient suppliers. They act by absorbing UV rays, thus reinforcing the final SPF**, by improving the distribution of filters in the formula for homogeneous protection, by stabilizing the product film on the skin or even by increasing water resistance. But the best sun protection being that which the consumer applies with pleasure, the sensoriality of the products is a fundamental criterion.
Sensoriality at the Heart of Innovation
If the consumer can forgive a beach sunscreen for a texture that is not very sensory, this is not the case for sunscreen applied on a daily basis, especially when makeup is applied afterwards. Inspired by Asian sunscreen products, with ever more elegant textures, we are seeing fluid, ultra-light textures flourish, like those offered by Bkolor Makeup&Skincare. The innovative treatment of mineral filters also makes it possible to lighten textures, while avoiding the white veil that is often associated with them (a real obstacle to use for dark and dark skin).
Creams, fluids, mists, sunscreen water, sticks or sprays, the diversity of textures and galenics is a real field of exploration for formulators, particularly when sun protection is combined with skincare or makeup in multitasking products.
Hybrid products
Sunscreen products have become real care products. Both by their preventive action against the signs of aging (the sun is the first factor in premature aging of the skin, it is responsible for 80%), but also by the growing number of references integrating other active care ingredients. to the formula. Salicylic acid to fight against imperfections, vitamin C for radiance and antioxidant protection, anti-spot ingredients to reduce hyperpigmentation, or even niacinamide as at TOA Inc, the Swiss army knife par excellence, sun protection is integrated into the morning skincare routine.
Makeup is also emerging as a player in sun protection, and more and more manufacturers are offering makeup products incorporating UVB/UVA protection, as is the case for Beautycromia or Cosmetic Service SRL. Complexion products (foundation, BB creams, etc.) are particularly concerned, because they already contain titanium dioxide as a pigment, which is also a UV filter. Bonus: The iron oxides that contribute to the product’s shade appear to protect against blue light from the sun. The sun protection of a makeup product must, however, be considered as a plus, and not sufficient in itself: the quantity actually applied is often insufficient to obtain the index displayed.
Protecting Sun Protection: The Role of Packaging
To protect a formula as technical as a sunscreen product, and facilitate its use by the consumer, packaging plays a vital role. Protect first, because anything that can destabilize the formula of a sunscreen has an impact on its performance, and therefore on consumer protection. The materials chosen must also resist certain sometimes “aggressive” packaging formulas, and container-content compatibility is an issue.
For the consumer to apply it as much as necessary, the packaging of a solar product must also be practical, and this is where innovative packaging solutions stand out. The portable format offered by HCP Packaging (Color Capsule) allows you to carry your sunscreen in the bag for easy, safe reapplication. Their aluminum cover makes them even stylish!
Here again, the diversity of galenics is a challenge for the development of packaging, in particular the most fluid textures (easy to apply but sometimes difficult to handle, beware of leaks!). This is the style exercise that Pack FusionPKG has achieved with trendy brands like Supergoop!, Kosas, Kate Somerville and Tatcha.
Conclusion
More than a beach accessory, the sun protection product takes its place in consumers’ skincare routine. This growing demand is a real catalyst for innovation, to offer increasingly sophisticated textures, “smart” sunglasses and packaging that is practical, protective and inspiring. It is up to the industry not to forget that protection is not only a booster of innovation, but above all a responsibility.
* FEBEA 2024 Barometer
**SPF = Sun Protection Factor, protection factor against UVB
Written by Marie Dehlinger
